Monday, December 28, 2009
Visitors to Mile 25
frasure7.blogspot.com
The above is the blog of a fellow PCV, Kevin. He lives up north in a small village called Yo Creek, about 7 miles outside of Orange Walk. He came to visit for the weekend in Mile 25 and we had a great time! I wanted to share with you his blog entry about our weekend so I don't have to write about :)
Quick update: I had a GREAT Christmas on Mile 25 despite being away from home and family. My friend Heather came to stay with me for 2 nights. She is a PCV in Belmopan and had no where to go for Christmas. We had a great weekend visiting with the villagers and eating great food. I am now up north in Yo Creek visiting Kevin. Yesterday we went to Chetumal, Mexico to shop around. Everyone crosses to border to buy cheap things, mainly cheap alcohol. I brought back a bottle of Tequila that cost me about 5 USD. Tomorrow, we are heading out to Caye Caulker to meet up with the rest of the volunteers coming in from all over Belize! I am really excited to reconnect with them and hear how they are doing in their sites! I will blog when I get back to Mile 25 next year!!!!!!
I hope everyone had a great Christmas, all over the world!
Saturday, November 28, 2009
Thanksgiving 2009
This past week we had our fist All Volunteer Conference. All volunteers, first years and second years, arrived in Belmopan this past Monday. It was great to see everyone again after spending more time in each of our sites. Everyone had stories to share about their housing struggles and daily challenges in their sites. We spent Tuesday in a workshop talking about Behavior Change and how that applies to our work in Belize. We discussed pertinent examples like picking up trash, using condoms, not beating your wife and children, attending meetings, etc. It was a very interesting and productive, yet long, day in class. We celebrated Thanksgiving on Wednesday because we had to head back to sites on Thursday. Each district in Belize was assigned a certain part of Thanksgiving to prepare. Stann Creek district, where I live, was assigned Salads. We all pooled our money and set out to make the ultimate green salad and fruit salad. It is possible to get delicious things like fresh green lettuce and spinach, olives, starfruit, plums, grapes,- but they are all super expensive so we don’t purchase them on the day to day. But on Wednesday, we went all out. We bought everything we had been eyeing in the best grocery store in Belmopan to make our salads. When everyone came together in the afternoon with their various dishes, it looked just like any Thanksgiving I would have attended back home. We had Turkey, ham, green bean casserole, 4 kinds of stuffing, mashed potatoes, salads, veggies, pumpkin pies and much much more! Everyone splurged and spent the 28 BZE for the cheapest wine in Belize to share with the meal. It was great to have all volunteers and staff in one room to share this day with. People stood up and gave thanks before we ate. It was a nice day filled with much love and thanks. There was so much food left over that we packed some up to bring back to the hotel for later and sent the rest to a children’s home in Belmopan. I finally received a package from my Mom that I had been waiting on for over a month this past week. It was complete with Halloween, Thanksgiving, and Christmas decorations. Halloween was long gone, but the Thanksgiving decorations were perfect! We used the turkey napkins as centerpieces with the fresh flowers a staff member picked in the morning. And the paper turkey centerpiece sat on the podium. Everyone loved the decorations. Thanks Mom!
Up next- I am FINALLY moving in to my house on December first. After much confusion about where to live, I have settled on the first cement house that I found, despite how crazy the landlady may be. She is finishing bringing a water pipe to the back porch so I can wash and cleaning it up. I am excited to live on my own but extremely sad to leave my current host family. I really feel as though my host mom, Creidy, who is actually 1 week younger that I am is a sister to me. It is crazy the different lifes we live, yet we are the same age. I will miss living there, but am happy to have my own place for a little more of that American freedom I am wired to desire. Creidy can't understand why I want to move out so bad and I feel sad that she thinks it is because I don’t want to live with her and her family any more… But I think she understands now. I plan to still return for some meals each week and will have to see how to work that out.
Garifuna Settlement Day
November 19th is Garifuna Settlement Day in Dangriga. The Garifuna Culture is comprised of exslaves from Africa that landed in Dangriga and eventually settled there. They have a rich African roots culture filled with colorful dancing, drumming and unique food. I had been looking forward to this day for a while as I am thoroughly intrigued by this rich culture because it is slowly dying out here in Belize. In fact, we have two PCVs that are assigned to the preservation of this culture. They have a school in Dangriga that teaches the children about the history and traditions of the Garifuna. They learn the language and wear the traditional clothing as their school uniforms. I met some other volunteers that came up from PG in the morning upon arriving in Dangriga on the 18th. Everyone stays up dancing, drumming and eating in the streets to ring in November 19th. At 6 in the morning, they have a reenactment of when the Garifuna Settlers arrived in Dangriga. A famous Garifuna dish is called Hudut. It is coconut milk, Ocra, and Fish served with a dollop of mashed and boiled plantains. It is really nice but hard on the stomach due to the rich coconut milk. We partied in the streets all night, meeting tons of people, learning about the culture, listening to the drumming and music, dancing and eating. It was a lot of fun and a very interesting night.
Caye Caulker
I decided to head to Caye Caulker with a couple other volunteers for the weekend. I had never been to Belize City yet, and desperately wanted to experience the “Vacation Belize” that most people think of when they hear about Belize. I hoped a bus to Belize City on Friday with my friend Erika who had come up from PG to have lunch in my village with me. The bus to Belize city is only about 2.5 hours. Adam, a PCV in Belize City met us at the station. He walked us to his house where we left our bags. All volunteers talk about this place called the Tavern in Belize City that is like an American Sports bar. It has the only beer in Belize, Beliken Beer, on tap and your classic American food- all for a price of course. Everything about the Tavern felt like we were in America. We noshed on burgers and onion rings, drank beer on tap and watched BBall on flat screen TVs. It was crazy, but felt so great to escape for a few hours from rice and beans, little electricity, and creek water.
The next morning, we woke up and headed to the Water Taxi stand. Caye Caulker is only a 45 minute water taxi ride off of Belize City. San Pedro is a little bit further and more expensive and ritzy. Caye Caulker is known for being cheaper and laid back as it has long been a part of the backpackers belt down Central America. As soon as we hit the water and sped away from the city, the water began to get clearer and sparkled with more azul colors than I have ever seen before. You could see clear through to the bottom all the way out to the Cayes. We had heard of stilted Cabanas on the water for 30 BZE a night for the entire cabana, complete with a private bathroom and shower. It was perfect and the cheapest place to stay on the island. We spent the rest of the day swimming and hanging by the water. The water was so warm and clear. It felt like bath water- but it was super salty!!! That night we ate lobster tails- and they were amazing. I really wanted to go snorkeling out on the reefs. So we signed up for an all day sailing and snorkeling trip for the next day. It was the best decision I have made since arriving in country!!!! The started out overcast, and we were unsure what we were getting ourselves into, as it was 80 BZE for the entire day. This included Snorkeling gear, lunch, 3 stops to snorkel and all the rum-punch you can drink on the way home served with fresh Ceviche. Ceviche is like a salsa casera made with chopped tomatoes, onions, garlic, lime and fresh peeled shrimp or conk. You serve it with corn chips. It is absolutely delicious! The day was perfect. There were about 19 of us on this sail boat- all travelers from all over the world. Three rasta guys ran the boat, called Ragga Queen! Haha. They were great and really knowledgeable about the ocean and all the fish we saw! We swam with nurse sharks, stingrays, turtles, eels and tons of fish.
Caye Caulker is the exact opposite of how we live further inland Belize. It really is the tourist Belize that people were thinking of when I told them I would serve in the Peace Corps in Belize. It was a nice get away and comforting to know that it is so close and affordable when the village life wears on me.
Cleft Pallet
It has been about a month since I last wrote a blog entry. So much has happened that I want to share with you. I helped a boy get a life changing surgery, vacationed on Caye Caulker, I danced and drummed in Dangriga and celebrated Thanksgiving with all the volunteers and staff of Peace Corps Belize.
About two weeks ago, I received an email from a fellow volunteer in Toledo district. She described how she met a team of doctors in Punta Gorda at a craft collective where one Volunteer worked. When she struck up a conversation with them, they explained how they had arrived in Belize prepared to complete over 50 Cleft Pallet and Cleft Lip surgeries but somebody on the Belize end of things dropped the ball and did not gather the patients. So this team of top plastic surgeons spent their own money and time to carry down all the supplies needed to perform such surgeries and now had no one to operate on. I can imagine their frustration, but on the Belizean side of things, I am not surprised that this happened. Anyways, this was a last ditch effort to gather patients that could be in PG to have this surgery the following day. I received this email at 8 PM. I almost disregarded it as I had not seen anyone in the village with a cleft lip and it seemed like a long shot chance to get down there, a 5 hour bus ride. But I did casually ask my friend in the internet café if she knew of anyone with such a “ big cut right so.” She said, ah ha, she knew of a boy that grew up here with that but now lives in Armenia, a village 15 miles down the road towards Belmopan. I asked if she knew how to contact him. She asked a neighbor and relative of the boy for the phone number at which he is staying in Armenia. With that in hand, we now had the challenge of making a phone call. We walked to the store to get a phone card to use the community phone. We then walked on the other end of town to use the phone. I first called the volunteer that sent the email to receive more info. We then called the number where the boy was living. Cosy, my counterpart’s daughter talked to the person who answered and told them about this team of doctors in PG that could fix his lip for free. The boy agreed that he was interested and said he could be in Mile 25 the next morning by 8 AM. At this point I was not sure if I would have to take the boy down there myself or what.
So then, Cosy lead us to his Mother’s house in our village where he grew up. It was pushing 9 PM by this point and she lives in a thatched with no electricity. We had one little light as we approached and I never even saw her face during the whole interaction. Again, we explained this opportunity and asked the mother if she would be willing to go down to PG with her son who was arriving in the morning for this opportunity. She agreed to go with him but said that she had never been to PG before and was scared. So I told her to meet me at 8 pm at the bus stop and I would carry them both down there on the bus.
I could hardly sleep that night, as I was so excited and worried at the same time about what I was getting myself into. Excited to play a role in this once in a lifetime opportunity for this young boy to lead a better life and worried that we could actually pull this off as we never got a hold of the team of doctors that the Volunteer had met. I worried that I would lead these people all the way down, a 5 hour bus ride, to PG to find out that we were mistaken and they were no longer doing surgeries or something to that extent. I woke up early and again called another volunteer in PG to ask her to track down these doctors and tell them that I am bringing a kid for the surgery. Meanwhile, I would have to get on the bus and head that way without ever knowing if this would actually happen. I figured it was a chance worth taking.
I walked towards the bus stop, realizing that I had no idea who I was looking for. To my knowledge, I had never met mother before the previous night where I never even saw her face. I figured I would know if the boy was there or not. The bus stop was filled with students and people awaiting the arrival of bus. I smiled at one women sitting in the bus stop and wondered if that was Ipifanya, the mother of the boy, but I did not see a boy with her. Then I noticed a boy with long hair, looking to the ground in the corner of the shed. He looked up quickly to see me and then I realized that he was the boy I was looking for-Peter. I greeted him and asked when he arrived this morning. He told me that he had awoken at 4 am to ride his single speed, beach cruiser bike 15 miles from Armenia to mile 25, reaching here at 6 am. Say what?! I can only imagine what had been going through his head as he made that ride. We boarded the bus to PG, a 5 hour trip. I paid the 15$ for each of them to ride the bus down there has they already told me they could not afford the bus passage.
I was immediately relieved upon reaching Dangriga and cell phone service because my friend Erika texted me from PG saying everything was a go and that the Doctors were ready for him. The trip was quick as we all sat in silence. Still not knowing what could go wrong between now and PG, or if this would really happen. Erika greeted us at the bus stop in PG and walked us to the Clinic. I could tell that Peter was nervous and overwhelmed, and I was equally tense. The doctors met us and were immediately friendly and excited. They were happy to see a patient. They asked Peter a ton of questions very fast and in English about his health and medical history. Mind you, this kid had probably never set foot inside of a clinic his entire life and does not speak much English. But he answered all of the questions well and the doctors were pleased and deemed him ready for Surgery. I felt an intense sigh of relief and rush of excitement that this was actually going to happen for him! He was so nervous and shy though. At one point while preparing for surgery, he disappeared to sit in the stairwell and I thought he ran for it. But he was just quiet and always looked down because he was embarrassed of his deformation. One by one, different doctors and nurses greeted Peter and us as they gathered for surgery. I was so overwhelmed that I can’t even imagine how Peter felt. Then before we could even say goodbye, they whisked him away into surgery.
I am convinced that he couldn’t even wrap his brain around what was going to happen to him despite explaining that they would put him to sleep and such. He must have been really scared. The surgery went great and he was done in 2 hours. By this time, 3 other PG volunteers had joined us at the hospital as they heard I brought Peter down from Mile 25 for the surgery. We were all there when he awoke from surgery. His lip looked really good but was very swollen and bloody. He finally recognized me and gave me a wave. I couldn’t believe I just met this kid mere hours prior as I felt so connected and responsible for him during the moments leading up to surgery and after he came out of it. It was like he was someone I had known for years, yet I didn’t know a single thing about him. Come to find out, he had left home at age 14 because his family mistreated him. He moved to Armenia to live with an aunt and had not been back since. He was now 19. This means that his mother agreed to accompany him down to PG without having seen her son much for the past 5 years. Growing up with such a prominent deformation on your face must have dictated how others treated him and how he walked through this world himself. After returning from PG the next day, he stayed in mile 25 for 4 days recovering. I said goodbye to him, wondering if I would ever see him again, but fully prepared to track him down in Armenia months to come. By this time, his lip looked amazing and he was warming up to me and talking a bit more. But we still didn’t have much to say to one another. Then, to my pleasant surprise, word spread that Peter had moved back to Mile 25 and brought his girlfriend with him! He had left only 5 days prior. I was thrilled to know he was moving back and living with his mother and family after learning that he had been gone for so long. And I was even more excited to find out that he had a girlfriend that he brought back with him! I can only hope that he now has a fresh start on life and this will hopefully change how people treat Peter, including his very own family.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Harvest time
Parties are really strange here in Mile 25. I have attended two parties since arriving in the village. One was a baby shower for a woman in the women’s group on the second day I arrived in the village and the other was a birthday party for one of Vero’s Grandsons. Both times… people came together, played games, chatted, helped prepare food and then just when the party is getting going, people are loosening up, and the food is being served… Everyone wraps their plate of food in tinfoil provided by the party hosts, thanks them for the great time, and takes their food, cake and juice home. The party immediately ends. It is so strange… Right when I think we are about to sit around, eat, drink and be merry…..I experience the Belizean culture whip and my entire existence of parties has forever been turned upside down. To me, the entire essence of a party is good food and good drinks, accompanied by good company and great conversation around the dinner table. Why even go through all the effort of making a great meal to share with friends, if they just pack it up and enjoy it at home alone? It blows my mind… I have fully committed to further research on the topic of Belizean gatherings in Mile 25. Is it unique to small communities? What drives such behavior? Are people embarrassed to eat in front of friends? Do they go home to share the food with their hungry families? Me no know ( I don’t know in Kriol- one of my favorite Kriol phrases here!). ME NO KNOW!!!!
Friday, October 23, 2009
Swearing in as a Peace Corps Volunteer!!!
PCVs Taylor and Charles
The state china and leftover dinner.
Just hanging in the entrance way of his house.
Signing the guest book... look closely and you can see someone already spilled wine all over it...
The bar on the porch
Shaking hands with our Country Director, Steve.
Business and Organizations PCVs with our Technical Trainer, Valentino...
Peace Corps Volunteers Belize 2009-2011!!!!!
PCVs Lilly and Taylor!!!!
Monday, October 19, 2009
Confirmed Tropical Disease--Dengue Fever!
Yesterday all the Peace Corps Trainees arrived back in Belmopan. It is so great to see fellow PCTs again and hear stories about everyone’s new site placements! These past two weeks were Peace Corps “lite” in our new homes- It was a taste of what is to come for the next two years.
Most importantly, today I got my blood work results from the states and our Nurse said I was positive for Dengue Fever. There are a handful of kinds of Dengue, so she wanted to take more blood to send back to the states to identify the severity of the situation… One form, Dengue Haemorrhagic Fever, is characterized by a rash under your skin that forms because your red blood cells are bursting and losing oxygen. Nurse Jackie is a bit concerned because I had such a rash on my hands and feet. Sooooo she wants to see if the rash was from the Dengue, or because of the fever and other such symptoms. She kind of got me a bit scared, but I will be fine. She just said to be careful about bug bites and continue to bathe in Deep Woods bug spray!!! I will keep you updated on the status of my Dengueness… But I feel fine and am doing great here! On Thursday we will swear in as official Peace Corps Volunteers. There will be a huge ceremony where the newly appointed American Ambassador will swear us in. Then we are attending a reception at his house on the American Embassy compound. It is supposed to be super nice and will be a great night!!!! Love love love~!
Wednesday, October 7, 2009
Photos of my Village
Possible home for 2 years : The house is unfinished upstairs but there is one bedroom on the main floor with a toilet and shower out back.. It is perfect! I am going to get a dog too.. haha.. a dog... Some one send me a book about raising a puppy please. I have no idea, but everyone here has dogs for protection and safety.
Tuesday, October 6, 2009
Day 1 of the next 2 years!
Welcome to Beautiful Hummingbird Community- Mile 25 of the Hummingbird Highway!!!!
This quaint, unbelievably beautiful village is situated directly in the middle of Belmopan and Dangriga. Belmopan, is where I have spent a lot of time since arriving in country as that is where the PC HQ is located. Dangriga, is a lively town on the coast of Belize that is bursting at the seams with the vibrant Garifuna culture. I have only passed through Dangriga on the bus heading down to Punta Gorda Town, but from what I saw and all that I have heard, I am sure that I will love this culture and town on the coast. Most people in Hummingbird head to Dangriga to do their major shopping and relaxing.
Yesterday was the day that each and every Peace Corps Trainee had waited years for—the day that we finally met our counterparts. A Counterpart is the person that requested to have a Peace Corps Volunteer join their Organization, School, Village, etc. They, also, have been waiting a long time to finally greet us. Counterparts and Trainees filled the function center in Belmopan yesterday. Everyone was eagerly scoping out the crowd to try to pinpoint their counterpart. I spotted my counterpart from a far because there were 5 of them, whereas all other counterparts came alone, or with one other person. 5 of the women from Horizon Women’s group in Hummingbird Community arrived to greet me. They all gave me a giant huge and whispered in my ear how grateful they were to finally meet me. You see, Hummingbird Community has never received a Peace Corps Volunteer before and they have tried for 2 years to apply and receive one. I’m pretty sure I had a tear or two in my eye as I hugged each and every one of them. I felt comfortable and at ease immediately. I couldn’t have been happier. We spent the day in the workshop reviewing the role of Peace Corps, expectations of PCVs and Counterparts, and rules and regulations of the Peace Corps as a whole. At the end of the day, everyone loaded up there bags and headed out of Belmopan to their permanent sites. Some travelled by bus up north to Orange Walk Town, others had fancy company cars whisk them away to Belize City. The ladies and I piled in to my main Counterpart’s truck. Her husband is a mechanic and had been in Spanish lookout, which is a large Mennonite community, buying parts for a car and picked us up on the way back. On our way out of town, we stopped by the Belmopan Market to pick up some Avocados. I told Mrs. Myrtle earlier that I loved the fresh avocados here in Belize. So she stopped and bought some for herself and gave me 3. Mrs. Mrytle is the village chairlady of Hummingbird Community. She is a dynamite lady!!! She not only is happily married and has 3 children and two grandkids, but she serves as the chairlady, head of the women’s group, is the village nurse, runs the internet café and does any and everything else to help out her community and improve its livelihood. I can tell that we will have a great time. Esmeralda is a well-kept older women who has worked her entire life as a public servant for the ministry of Education. She knows a lot of important people around Belize and dedicates her life to helping poor children to find the funds and support to get an education. As she says, she is investing in the future of her country and the world. She is an amazing women also and I am excited to work with her. The women are all very generous in taking care of me. Whenever I have been out with them walking or visiting, they always offer me fruit or water and such. Today when we road the bus to the schools down the road, they paid for my “passage” to get there. They are very nice and generous.
Hummingbird Community is a village that spans 5 miles of the Hummingbird Highway- Miles 25-30. There is a distinct center of town complete with the community center and new Internet Café, Futbol field & BBall Courts, bus stop, 3 small tiendas (shops) and a few houses. There are about 700 people and 70 houses that span these 5 miles. Houses are situated close to the hummingbird “highway” and fall back in the Mayan hills!! This village is supposedly one of the most beautiful villages in Belize! The community is filled with diverse people, just like the entire country of Belize. There are Spanish speakers, Kriol, Maya Mopan, and English. My counterpart and the fellow ladies speak in Kriol. So I am already starting to pick up more Kriol. My new hostfamily in Hummingbird speaks only Spanish and no English. They are both Guatemalans that have lived in Hummingbird Community for many years. My host”mom” is younger than me by a few weeks! She is very quiet and shy. She is married to Fidencio, who is 43 and has lived in our community for over 20 years. He is a farmer and has built a large house for him and his family here. They have two children; Johan, who is 4 & Maribel, who is 2. They are very kind and quiet. It also proves challenging to communicate with my broken Spanish and Kriol- but we are getting by. I have a large room and the house has an indoor toilet!!!!!!!!!!!!! But- the water simply runs from a hose through the window to flush the toilet, so we have to collect used toilet paper in a bin next to the toilet. I still have a bucket bath as there is no running water in the pipes right now. Fidencio has rigged a system of hoses to the toilet, sinks, and “shower” area through windows from the creek the runs by our house. I will stay here for 1.5 months and then I can move out on my own.
Housing options are limited folks!!! The ladies have secured a house right next to the internet café and community center for me. It is one the women’s sister who moved to the next village over. The cement house is large with two bedrooms, BUT, BUT, BUT it has NO BATHROOM. There is a latrine in the far back corner, about 35 feet from the house that I would share with like 23 other people who live in thatched houses around this available house. AND the bathing area is a 3-sided tin room in front of the house with a clear view of 2 thatched houses in front. My dreams of an indoor toilet and bucketbath were crushed momentarily. I did speak up and tell the ladies that it was a nice house but I was really hoping there would be an indoor toilet. We had a good laugh about how I don’t like it when the cockroaches(cucaracha) stare at me when I pee in the middle of the night. They chimed in with their stories of giant rats and tarantulas running past them on the path to the latrine at night. Hahha..
Sorry Mom, I will try harder to proof read my blogs.... Internet time often does not allow time for a reread.